Door Closer Repair & Installation in San Francisco

A door that slams, drifts open or will not latch is almost always the door closer. Ace Locksmith SF adjusts, repairs and replaces commercial door closers for San Francisco offices, storefronts, restaurants and apartment buildings, 7 days a week. Door closer replacement runs $250–$500 installed, plus a $29 service call.

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What's included

Door closer adjustment: closing speed, latch speed and backcheck

Door closer repair and replacement for leaking or broken closers

Grade 1 commercial closer installation on storefront, office and building doors

Closer and panic bar alignment so exit doors latch every time

Fire-door closer checks so rated doors close and latch

Door closer repair in San Francisco: what we fix

We service surface-mounted, concealed and parallel-arm closers on commercial doors across San Francisco. Most calls are fixed with an adjustment on the first visit; a closer that leaks oil is replaced. Door closer replacement costs $250–$500 installed, depending on the closer grade, size and arm type. Every visit starts with a $29 service call and a quote before work begins.

Common door closer problems

Problem	Usual cause	Fix
Door slams shut	Sweep or latch valve open too far	Adjust valves, set backcheck
Door will not close all the way or latch	Latch speed too slow, spring too weak for the door, misaligned strike	Adjust latch speed and spring power, realign door and strike
Door closes too slowly	Valves closed down, or cold weather thickening the fluid	Open sweep and latch valves in small steps
Oil on the floor or closer body	Failed internal seal	Replace the closer; leaking closers cannot be refilled
Door swings open in the wind or hits the wall	No backcheck, broken arm or stop	Set backcheck, replace the arm or add a hold-open stop

What are the 1 and 2 screws on a door closer?

Diagram of door closer adjustment: valve 1 sets sweep speed, valve 2 sets latch speed in the last 10–15 degrees, BC sets backcheck

Most closers have two speed valves, often stamped 1 and 2 or S and L:

1 / S (sweep): the speed from fully open to about 10–15 degrees from closed.
2 / L (latch): the speed over the last few degrees, so the door closes firmly enough to latch without slamming.
BC (backcheck), if present: slows the door when it is thrown open, protecting the wall and the hinges.

Turn valves a quarter turn at a time. Clockwise slows, counter-clockwise speeds up. Backing a valve out too far can make the closer leak, which is the most common reason a DIY adjustment ends in a replacement.

The three adjustments on a door closer

Sweep speed (valve 1 / S): how fast the door travels from open to about 10–15 degrees from closed.
Latch speed (valve 2 / L): the final few degrees, set so the door latches without slamming.
Backcheck (BC): cushions the door when it is thrown open so it does not hit the wall or strain the hinges.

Some closers add a fourth, delayed action (DA), which holds the door open a few seconds longer for carts or wheelchairs.

How to adjust door closer tension (spring power)

Speed and tension are different settings. The valves change speed; spring power changes how hard the closer pushes the door shut. On adjustable-size closers, the spring is set with an adjusting nut or screw on the closer body, usually marked in sizes from 1 to 6. Increase it for heavy doors or entrances that catch wind; decrease it if the door is hard to open. Interior doors covered by accessibility rules are limited to about 5 lbf of opening force, so more power is not always the answer.

Which door closer do I need?

Door size and weight: sets the closer size or spring power.
Mounting: regular arm on the pull side, parallel arm on the push side (common on storefronts), or top-jamb mount.
Grade: grade 1 for exterior and busy commercial doors.
Fire rating: fire doors need a listed closer and no hold-open unless it releases on alarm.
Extras: hold-open arm, delayed action, or a stop to protect the wall.

Not sure? Send us a photo of the door and the current closer and we will tell you what fits.

Grade 1 vs grade 2 vs grade 3 door closers

ANSI/BHMA grade	Built for	Typical doors
Grade 1	Heavy commercial use, highest cycle testing	Storefront and building entrances, schools, busy offices
Grade 2	Medium commercial use	Interior office doors, low-traffic back doors
Grade 3	Light use	Residential and very light commercial doors

For any exterior or high-traffic door in San Francisco we recommend grade 1. Wind on exposed entrances and heavy aluminum storefront doors wear out lighter closers fast.

Door closers, panic bars and fire doors

A fire-rated door must close and latch on its own, so its closer has to be working and adjusted. On exit doors, the closer and the panic bar work together: a weak closer is the most common reason an exit door does not latch. We check both on the same visit.

Commercial door closer service across San Francisco

Ace Locksmith SF is a licensed commercial locksmith (CA License #7929) serving offices, storefronts, restaurants and apartment buildings throughout San Francisco, 7 AM–11:30 PM, 7 days a week. Call (415) 205-5718.

How it works

Our simple process gets you the help you need quickly and efficiently.

Call us

We arrive

Technician arrives in 15-20 minutes

Get a quote

Upfront pricing before we start

Problem solved

Expert service from a licensed locksmith

Frequently asked questions

What are the common problems with door closers?

Slamming, not closing or latching, closing too slowly, leaking oil and no backcheck. Most are fixed by adjusting the sweep, latch and backcheck valves; a closer that leaks oil must be replaced.

What is the 1 and 2 on a door closer adjustment?

Valve 1 (sweep) controls the speed from open to about 10–15 degrees from closed. Valve 2 (latch) controls the last few degrees so the door latches without slamming. Adjust a quarter turn at a time.

What is the difference between grade 1 and grade 3 door closers?

Grade 1 closers are built and tested for heavy commercial traffic such as storefront and building entrances. Grade 3 closers are for light residential use. Use grade 1 on any exterior or busy door.

Can a leaking door closer be repaired?

No. Once a closer leaks oil its internal seals have failed and it cannot be refilled. It needs to be replaced, ideally with a grade 1 closer on a commercial door.

How much does door closer repair cost in San Francisco?

Door closer replacement runs $250–$500 installed in San Francisco, depending on the closer grade, size and arm type, plus a $29 service call. Many problems are fixed with an adjustment instead of a new closer, and we quote before any work.

What are the three adjustments on a door closer?

Sweep speed (valve 1), latch speed (valve 2) and backcheck. Some closers also have delayed action. Adjust each a quarter turn at a time.

How do I adjust the tension on my door closer?

Tension is the spring power, not the speed valves. On adjustable closers turn the spring adjusting nut on the closer body toward a higher size for heavy or windy doors, lower if the door is hard to open.

How do I know which door closer I need?

Match the closer size to the door weight and width, pick the arm for the mounting side (regular or parallel arm), use grade 1 on commercial doors, and a listed closer on fire-rated doors.

Transparent pricing, no surprises

We believe in honest, upfront pricing. You’ll receive a clear quote before any work begins, with no hidden fees or surprise charges. Our prices are competitive, and we never charge extra for evenings, weekends, or holidays.

Locked out or need a locksmith now?

Call Now: (415) 205-5718

Licensed locksmith (#7929) · open 7 days a week, 7 AM-11:30 PM · 15–20 min response in SF